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Emergency Medical

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TOXINS
PAIN & EMERGENCY

 PAIN & INJURIES & HAZARDS IN THE HOME 
*IF AT ANY TIME OR FOR ANY REASON YOU ARE UNSURE ABOUT GIVING MEDICAL CARE*, CALL/CONSULT ANY VETERINARIAN. *TAKE NO RISKS !!!*

 ILLNESS & INJURIES:
Veterinarians suggest that at the first sign of illness, you should place the bird under a heat source, optimal temperatures for an ill dove are between 70 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit/21 and 32 degrees Celsius, with a 40-watt bulb and quarantine it from other birds until you can bring it into the vet. Signs of illness may include:
* Change in eating or drinking habits: Sick and injured animals of most any sort will stop eating when the situation is serious. Keep an extremely careful watch. Doves, in particular, are small and can't afford to skip too many meals. It's highly unusual for a dove to not eat for an entire day. If, with-in about 12 hours, you notice that food and water haven't been taken, it's time for serious concern. If it's at all possible, consult with an "avian veterinarian" as soon as possible. As an alternative, if you have access to the more popular social media platforms, search there as well. Hash-tags #veterinarian, #dove, #bird, #avian, #medic, #birdman & often catch the eye of a fellow compassionate soul who can and will offer and provide some of the greatest help, and many will do so out of the sincere kindness of heart because, like you, they sincerely care about the health and well-being of the little Life who's in trouble. If you're able, take a photo of "the patient" and the cage. This can be "attached" to your message and be of great help.
Closed eyes
Flued feathers
Watery or green droppings
Inactivity/lethargy
Trouble with balance
Protruding breast bone
Unusual silence/cessation of singing
Often, as I've discovered, it's best to leave well-enough alone when injuries are not life-threatening. Doves, as most wild creatures, have a most amazing aptitude and ability to heal. It's almost "miraculous", to be honest. Given quiet, dim lighting, and left on their own, many small injuries will heal with-in days. Besides, excessive handling isn't in the best interest of the bird as it can cause excitement or even trauma. They're not used to being handled by people. After all, we're seen as a "threat", a "predator". Keep this in mind. If droppings are exceptionally liquid or green, re-evaluate the food. Check to see if there are any out-ward signs of "infestation": "flakes" on the feathers, excessive shedding of feathers, if there's excessive "preening" or pulling of feathers. This might be mites or some other parasite which might or might not require veterinary intervention. Other-wise, it might be just normal behaviour. But if there are "protrusions", lethargy, and especially trouble with balance or position of the head (twisting, tilting, "cocking"), best to seek professional guidance.

 BEAK CARE
PROFESSIONAL AVIAN VETERINARIAN SERVICE IS ESSENTIAL FOR BEAK CARE
A dove's beak grows continuously (never stops). In the natural environment, the beak is kept at a healthy length as a dove eats, scratches on the ground and on perches and limbs. When in “home-care”, this might not always be possible and the beak will grow to where the upper beak will grow beyond and over the lower beak. This can cause difficulties with eating, preening and other activities which can lead to malnutrition or starvation, as well as other issues.
Trimming a beak is a delicate procedure and one which should NEVER be done UNLESS you are ABSOLUTELY SURE about what you are doing.
Improper beak trimming can cause bleeding, infection, PAIN, which will cause a dove to stop eating and drinking.
You can place a CLEAN emery board in the dove's house (cage) to “play” with, or attach one or more to the side(s) as you would a cuttlebone. (Cuttlebones are not “natural” or familiar to a mourning dove and will probably be ignored. If you choose to use cuttlebone, be sure to “sand-down” sharp edges as these can cause injuries if/when a dove flies about inside the house/cage.) Another useful item is a CLEAN (wash, rinse completely and boil), flat rock that's large enough to hold a day's-worth of food on it. As a dove pecks through the seeds, the beak will get “filed-down”. There are perches made of abrasives (cement, &c.) available as well. Be sure they're non-toxic! NEVER depend on “merchants' descriptions” only. Some of these perches will damage a dove's feet and some may contain ingredients that can injure or kill. Other perches are made of “natural” hard wood. Again, check for ANY potential toxicity.
GENERALLY, ANY TRIMMING OR TREATMENT OF/TO A DOVE'S BEAK REQUIRES PROFESSIONAL SKILL. CONTACT YOUR LOCAL ANIMAL SERVICES OR AVIAN VETERINARIAN FOR BEAK TRIMMING !!! DO NOT ATTEMPT TO TRIM A DOVE'S BEAK UNLESS YOU ARE PERFECTLY CERTAIN ABOUT THE PROCEDURE !

 TOES CARE
PROFESSIONAL AVIAN VETERINARIAN SERVICE IS ESSENTIAL FOR TOES AND TOE-NAIL CARE
As with people, dogs, cats, generally, any-one with toe nails (and/or claws), a dove's toe nails grow constantly. In the wild, they wear them down as they walk along the ground, or on the limbs they roost on. There are perches available at reputable "pet" stores that address this matter, but beware of the material(s) that are used. "Natural wood" should clearly state what kind of wood is used. Some wooods can be toxic to doves. (These are listed on the "Toxins" page.) Other perches are made of cement or like-substances. If too coarse, they can not only wear a dove's nails down but can also cause abrasions on a dove's feet which can lead to infections, illness and even death. An abrasive similar to a common "emery board" is recommended. The "grit" is fine enough to be effective at maintaining toe nails, yet not so rough as to cause abrasions on the feet.
Nail care can be performed at home, in a variety of ways, but UNLESS YOU ARE ABSOLUTLEY POSITIVELY SURE AND CERTAIN about what you are doing, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO CLIP, TRIM OR FILE A DOVE'S TOE NAILS YOUR-SELF! A mistake can cause bleeding, pain, infection, loss of a toe or multiple toes. Pain can cause a dove to not eat, leading to starvation... death.
If it is at all possible, contact a competent avian veterinarian who will perform the necessary procedure, and might give you essential instructions in the care of a dove's toes.
If you have a dove in your home, as mentioned under "Beak Care" above, placing several CLEAN (wash, rinse completely and boil), flat, some-what rough-textured rocks (or one large rock) on the floor of the cage is a good habit. The dove will walk about and scratch at the rock(s). If using a large rock, a bit of foood can be placed on it, encouraging scratching and foraging. Also, a tray of THOROUGHLY-WASHED, CLEAN, STERILE sand is good. Doves not only enjoy laying on a sandy surface, but they will also scratch in, at and through it. (BE AWARE: THEY WILL ALSO EAT SOME, as they do in the wild. It provides the "grit" necessary to aid in digestion. So DO be sure there are NO CHEMICALS, or plant/animal matter in the sand that could cause illness.)

 BLEEDING
Also, if you see blood in the cage or in the area around the cage, check, visually, for any signs of injury on the body. A few drops here and there are shocking and disturbing, but bleeding should stop with-in a short period of time. Yonah has, sadly, hit the window twice and it resulted in bleeding from the wing. Droplettes were seen in his cage and where he hit the curtains. Thankfully, the very next day, the bleeding had stopped and he was hopping and flying about as his usual self.
DO NOTE, how-ever, doves don't have much blood to begin with and can't afford to lose all that much before serious complication arise. If bleeding is "regular", for a period of time, seeking professional help is necessary.

 DROPPINGS
• Droppings are an almost perfect and the easiest way to monitor the health of a dove.
• Daily notice of colour, quantity, wetness or any characteristic is an absolute must.
• Also, notice where the droppings are in the morning.
This shows where the dove has slept over-night.
There will be a “usual place”, primarily in one spot.
This shows a peaceful night's sleep.
If droppings are “scattered”, something caused restlessness and anxiety during the night.
• There are three component to normal droppings:
   • fecal (stool) - green-to-brown, solid.
   • urate (solid urine) - usually white, expelled with the stool, usually appears as a white "spot" some-what central on the whole dropping.
   • clear liquid urine - there shouldn't be an excessive amount of this as doves normally retain as much liquid as is necessary to their health; it may, at times, appear "greenish" as it leeches from the stool but if it's dark green or any other colour, it may indicate organ troubles.
Again, DAILY note of droppings is essential.

 FRACTURES: WING AND LEG
For a broken wing or leg, there are methods of bandaging and splinting. A wing should be placed against the body and secured with a self-adhereing gauze-type bandage. (This isn't easy as the bandage will tend to slip, feathers are smooth.) A "splint" can be made from a small piece of drinking straw (paper is best). Wrap the leg with a strip of gauze, from the "belly" to the top of the foot, cut a length of straw that will cover the length from belly-to-top-of-foot and then split it so that it can be placed over the gauze, similar to a "band". A piece of celo-tape can be used to secure the straw. Watch to see when walking/hopping returns to "normal" (about a week or two) and remove the splint. If normal gait doesn't return in about 10 days, maximum, seek professional guidance/help.
For more information on leg and wing fractures, check: STARLINGTALK.COM

 BANDAGING A FRACTURED WING:
• The first thing you'll need it a "self-adhering" bandage "wrap", approximately 1in/2,5cm wide. It's readily available at most pharmacies/druggists and not at all costly. Regular gauze bandage isn't only not recommended because it slips over feathers too easily, especially after you've gone through the trouble of getting it on (this is the "voice of experience" here), it won't stay where put for too long. Birds don't understand "bandages" and having a wing immobilised is perceived as being "trapped". They'll do just about anything to remove it and run the risk of further injury, damage to the wing or even getting it caught in their toes, running the risk of broken toes or legs. "Self-adhering" gives you more control as to how and where it fits as well as the ability to ensure that it's wrapped tightly enough (BUT NOT TOO TIGHTLY) so as to stay where put long enough to allow for recovery and healing.
•*• BE SURE THAT YOU WRAP THE BANDAGE SO THAT THE LEGS ARE FREE TO MOVE *** AND *** DO NOT WRAP UNDER THE AREA WHERE THE TAIL MEETS THE BODY!!! THIS IS WHERE THE DOVE WILL "POO"! AND YOU DO *** NOT *** WANT TO BLOCK THAT AREA.
• You'll have to hold the dove securely, with the wing in position against the body in a "natural" position. You'll be able to "feel" when it's proper. The wing will naturally "fold" where it belongs.
• If there's just a little bit of bleeding, a few drops on your hand, for example, leave it alone. It'll clot.
• If the blood-flow is constant, a sprinkle of clean corn-starch will help staunch the bleed. Sprinkle LIGHTLY. You don't want a clump, and remember, eventually, it will have to come off, preferably with time, on its own.
• Start by wrapping the bandage once or twice round the dove's body UNDER BOTH wings, firmly but NOT tightly.
• Now, holding the injured wing in place, wrap the bandage round, securing the injured wing close to the body. Again, "securely" NOT "tightly". You have to allow for breathing.
• Wrap round UNDER THE UN-INJURED wing, you DON'T want to secure this one.
• Continue wrapping in this fashion once or twice more but no more than is absolutely necessary to protect the injured wing. Too much, too tight will constrict breathing.
• When you've done wrapping, secure the bandage against itself, preferably not under the body. If necessary, a piece of surgical tape (paper is preferable) can be used to ensure a secure hold. • It'll take about 10 days to 2 weeks for the wing to heal to where the bandage can be removed. In that time, if needed, re-wrap as necessary following these steps.

 SPLINTING A FRACTURED LEG:
• This is a bit more difficult than treating a wing because the bandaging is much smaller and the leg can be much more fragile AND you'll have to hold the dove up-side-down. THIS almost demands TWO people but can be done with one... with a LOT of patience and tenacity. A dove is NOT going to simply lie still for this.
• You might want to wrap the dove in a soft cloth that will cover his/her eyes/face BUT NOT THE NOSE OR BEAK!
• You'll need a paper drinking straw, a bit of cotton (a cosmetic cotton ball, for example), scissors and some good adhesive tape.
• Measure the length of the leg from the belly to the top of the foot and cut this length from the straw.
• Cut the straw up the length so that you can "open" it to wrap round the leg.
• Estimate how much cotton you'll need to wrap round the leg with some cotton over the top and bottom edges (so they don't cut into the foot or belly) and will "fill the space" between the straw and the leg.
• How you apply the cotton and straw is at your own ease but you can open the straw, place the cotton inside and then wrap it all round the leg as one would when "banding". Secure with tape.
• An alternative method (which certainly calls for 2 people) is to wrap the leg with the cotton, then wrap the straw round the cushioned leg and secure with tape.
• Again... as with the wing, 10 days to about 2 weeks later, remove the "splint". By then, the leg should comfortably support the dove.

 PAIN
• When birds are in pain they will sometimes limp, hold their wing at a strange angle, become silent, "hide" in a corner or dark space, lay very still for long periods of time or something more obvious. But often they may just look or stare at you blankly and do nothing! This is especially true for wild birds. It's not uncommon for wild birds with horrific injuries to not show any outward signs of pain.
Why don’t birds show signs of pain? Some people call this the “preservation reflex” and it is not just birds but other prey species too. For these species, to show signs of sickness or pain is to show weakness, and to show weakness can draw special attention. The rest of the flock will see the suffering member as a detriment to the stability and well-being of the rest. A slower member presents a threat to all in that s/he is an easier target for predators who watch carefully, for a "meal".
Aside from the mentioned "obvious" reasons, there's no particular certainty why animals respond to pain and injury in these manners, but the presumption is that it's an evolutionary feature that helps some species to survive or hide from predators.

 *HOUSE-HOLD HAZARDS*
HOUSE-PLANTS... SOME ARE TOXIC! There are listings of "Safe" and "Dangerous" house-plants on-site at the "TOXINS" PAGE. Three TOXIC plants almost common to many house-holds are:
Philodendron
Dieffenbachia (also known as “dumb cane”) Ivy – Hedera spp. (Boston, English and some others)
IN ADDITION TO THE LISTING ON THE "TOXINS" PAGE ON THIS SITE, TWO EXCELLENT LISTS of toxic and non-toxic common house-plants CAN BE FOUND AT:
https://vcahospitals.com/know-your-pet/plants---toxic-for-birds
https://birdhism.com/blogs/news/common-bird-safe-house-plants
• Windows: Animals have no concept or notion of "glass". All they see is what lies beyond the window and birds will fly, believing they have all the open space between them and what they see "on the other side of the glass". When a mourning dove tries to reach maximum speed of 55mph/88,5kmh s/he is flying head/face forward. Striking the window can result in broken beak, crushed face/skull, and in a less-deadly case, broken wings.
• Walls and Ceilings: In a rush to "soar freely", walls of a solid, light colour (especially shades of blue) can appear to be open space to a dove in flight. As with windows, the scenario is the same with the same results, should s/he strike especially at full speed.
• Carpeting & Curtains: If you take notice, birds have sharp, rather long toe-nails, and these can "catch" in the pile of carpeting as well as some upholstery. Curtains, especially those that allow day-light through, may appear to be an "opening" and a dove will tend to fly toward them. Remember: there's solid glass on the other side of that curtain. (See: "windows")
• Shelves: The shelf itself might not present any threat to your dove, but the contents can. Small items that are easily toppled if/when your dove attempts a landing, can fall and break. Not only do you lose a cherished item, but the bird might panic... and head for a wall or window.
• Furniture: A sofa or chair provides a place to hide behind. A table is a perfect place to hide under. Not to mention any dust that might have accumulated out of sight. Dust contains mites and perhaps other insects. And tiny objects that make their way under furniture might appear to be edible or intriguing to a bird. Since doves don't chew, s/he'll swallow what-ever is found, whole. If the "snack" is plastic or the likes, it's indigestible and could cause blockage or general illness.
• Light Fixtures: Not only can some of these be tipped over and broken, light bulbs, especially the newer "halogens", can become hot enough to cause serious, severe burns. Consider the low pain-sensation of a bird's feet and, by the time s/he notices any discomfort, the damage already done may be irreparable.
• Sinks & Basins: If your dove has free run of the house, best to keep sinks and basins empty or, if you have to soak something, covered, particularly if there's any soap or cleaner in the water. Doves might see it as a place to bathe. A cleaner might be injurious to feathers, deadly if ingested. And doves really only need water of a depth of 1 inch/2,5cm. Deep water could cause drowning.
• Open Doors: Whether leading out-side or the next room, a flight out of a door and into the "open world" will, most likely, be "Good bye". Doors to other rooms... close them as you see fit, especially bath-rooms where items on shelves or reflective tiles can present troubles.
• Cooking/Stoves: Hot surfaces... and flight landings on hot surfaces.
Air Fresheners, Candles & Cleaning Fluids: It's not a good idea to use spray air fresheners or to use them sparingly around the house. Best to not use them in the same room where a bird is in residence. Remember that birds have smaller lungs than people have, and they tend to have larger eyes, comparatively speaking. Spray fresheners fill the air with particles that are inhaled. And scented candles, aside from the "open flame", disperse particles... especially soy-based candles which have been proven to disperse microscopic particles of soy into the air. Again, tiny lungs absorb these as birds breathe.
• Insects & Repellents: A bird will see an insect and doves, although being "granviors" (seed-eaters) will, from time to time, eat the occasional insect. Beware of the "odd" insect and, particularly, any insect (or other "vermin") that may have been "sprayed/poisoned" lest it become a "last snack" for an unsuspecting dove.
• WiFi: OK... let's just remember that "WiFi" signals carry internet data and the likes and for many of us who have "Internet Phone" can attest, these signals can be quite strong. (My WiFi, for example, can be connected almost a half mile/0,8km from the house.)Just saying, it might not be a good idea to have a little one in the same room as a lap-top or, a router.

 *** WINDOWS AND BLOOD ***
(As a note: much the same as what's here can be applied to a dove out-side and to a variety of incidents, accidents and injuries.)

If you have a dove flying about the house, "window contact" won't ever become "un-common". Animals generally, don't understand clear glass. Birds, in flight don't see it. A dove will see what's beyond the glass and normally head toward it and what is seen beyond... open spaces, trees, grasses, &c.. Result? CRASH! And you'll surely see blood, especially on and near the window. Quite often, this is a result of a wing injury which isn't "good" but might not be devastating.

Think also, the little one is flying as fast as possible, head and face front! Fractures of beak and skull are horrific potentials and could lead to the most serious injuries and death.

When you're confronted with a "window collision", as difficult as it might be, don't panic. Approach calmly, speak softly, don't "sneak up". At this point, at best, the dove is in pain, confused. The LAST thing YOU want to be perceived as is a predator, so your soft voice and calm approach can be assuring.

One thing to always bear in mind is that, should you even be able to get a dove to a veterinarian, it involves transporting a wild Being... perhaps in a box, in a vehicle, at a distance. Imagine, if you will, being injured, probably in some pain, put into a dark box and moved about. You have no idea what's going on. This is NOT "natural". And from the darkness of the box you hear the sounds of closing doors, the starting of an engine. You feel the motion of the vehicle (and honestly, wild animals have no reason to know or understand "vehicle"), the bumps in the road. In addition to the pain and injuries, there's all of this completely unfamiliar, inexplicable chaos. Stress... on a little heart. At this time, though your heart may be full of love and caring and the desire to run to medical help, the very best you can do now is attend at home. In the wild, at times like this, mourning doves will simply lay on the ground, if possible, find a place where they can't be seen, and wait for what-ever is to come next. But here and now, your little Friend has you, standing by, to protect him/her and, if possible and necessary, administer to the immediate needs. "Time and Nature" will take their course, over all. Meanwhile, your loving-care is here, now. Just keep that fact in your mind and heart.

Based on my experience with "those who claim to be in the know", and those who are purported to be "Bird people", including and not limited to those in "official" capacities, if you seek their help, you're more than likely going to hear what I heard when I sought help from these sorts:
"It's not endangered."
"It's not a significant animal."
"It's not a special animal."
"It's wild and we only deal with domestic pets."
"It's too small."
And then there's my personal favourite... after all the refusals to even offer suggestions...
"It's illegal to keep a dove. You'll have to turn it over to the authorities."
(I've since come to learn that the "authorities" will do nothing, save, "put the thing out of its misery". They don't "treat common birds.")
That said, ANY caring action you take, ANY loving you extend is MORE than the general apathy else-where. Take particular solace in that knowledge.

This said... to continue...

As you approach, check to see if the dove's eyes are open. If they're closed, check to see if s/he is breathing. If the eyes are closed and the dove is breathing, any steps you take from here must be with EXTREME care and gentility. (And remember: speak softly, let him/her know it's you and that you're there to help. It DOES make a difference.) With absolute, conscious and determined gentleness, as you continue to speak ever-so softly, assuring that you're there to help, lovingly lift the little one by bringing your hands under his/her little body from the sides, and in your cupped hands, bring him/her to a soft, warm place, out of bright light and away from noise, where you can keep a careful eye on the situation. Check the breathing. If it's quick, it may be the stress of the impact. If it's exceptionally slow, there may be internal damage. If it's "normal", this can be "good" or "not-so good". Monitor, quietly, with soft-spoken assuring words for some moments. Again, the sound of a soft voice DOES make a difference.

If the eyes are closed and there's no indication of breathing, take the chance: in cupped hands, as absolutely gently as is humanly possible, lift the little one and transport him/her to a soft, warm place where you can observe further. Give the situation a few moments to evolve. Breathing might resume. If, after several moments, it doesn't, there truly is nothing you can do. Loss of oxygen, and possible brain damage has taken their toll.

If all appears to be well, eyes are open, breathing is just a little quick...
Leave the little one be for a few moments. As you speak, again, softly, look for any out-ward signs of injuries: bleeding at the face, the wings. If there's bleeding and it's not excessive or serious, give a few more moments for "recovery". If it IS serious, follow the recommendations for "eyes closed". Other-wise, follow "eyes open". Eventually s/he will likely stretch his/her wings. Notice whether both wings move or if only one wing moves. If both, you're pretty-much in the clear. If only one wing moves, you might have a fracture. In either case, after a few moments have passed, try to transport (via the method above... in cupped hands) him/her to a soft place where s/he can rest, comfortably. A piece of soft fabric, perhaps in a shallow box, either back in the cage, but some place where s/he can't fall if s/he tries to move... and s/he most likely will try... sooner or later.

Be sure to keep the area warm, calm, undisturbed, and dimly lit. Animals perceive injury as a time to "hide". In the wild, they're seen as "weak" and a burden to the rest of the flock. They'll try to keep away from being noticed, and doves will normally try to find a low bush or, as Yonah did when I found him, any place out of sight, in the dark (as Yonah moved from the open area beside the walk-way to under the porch stair). You want to mimic the same, even as you observe.

If a bandage is necessary, as in the event of a broken or fractured wing, generally, just as with humans, you'll need to imobilise the injured wing. This is a bit tricky, and easier done with two people, but it can be done alone... with patience.

Basic instructions are already given above, meanwhile...
Above ALL else, don't panic. Doves ARE resilient and, were you not there to help, the dove would simply be alone, with-out any help. S/he's already a LOT closer to recovery having you present... and caring.

 MOULTING/MOLTING
• Moulting (or “molting”) is the process doves go through to replace their feathers.
• FIRST RULE:
Yes, it CAN BE EXTREMELY UNCOMFORTABLE AND IT'S EXHAUSTING for a dove and there are particular precautions that you need to take at this time. MOST IMPORTANT: LIMIT ALL “HANDLING” TO THE ABSOLUTE MINIMUM! You'll most-likely notice a reluctance to being touched in any way. Perfectly normal.
• Feathers are similar to people's hair and finger-nails. They're made of “keratin”, and in a sense, they're more like hair: they fall out and are replaced. This is necessary because old feathers can become damaged or worn over time. Especially on the wings and tail, the feathers are necessary for flight and balance, so, when they're not in perfect condition, it can cause difficulties in flight and walking.
• Moulting will happen at least twice yearly, most often in Spring and Autumn, but it can take place at other times as well. Sometimes, when it happens between seasons, it might be an indication of illness or parasites such as mites or fleas. So pay particular attention to when the moulting takes place and the general health of a dove.
• As the old feathers are lost, new feathers will be forming in the follicles. Blood supplies the necessary nutrients so, in new or “young” feathers, there is blood, and damage to the new feathers can cause bleeding. As the feathers mature, the blood supply will stop on its own. And these new feathers are “encased” in a wax and/or keratin sheath which, as moulting progresses, will drop as the dove preens. They'll look like dandruff or, at a quicker glance, may appear to be white “worms”. (Again, careful attention is best so you can see what's happening and differentiate between the “casings” and any other potential troubles.)
• As the new feathers grow, it can be uncomfortable for the dove, and handling him/her can be painful because the pressure on the body will be pushing against these new, very short “pin feathers”.
• Yes, the loss of feathers will be obvious: over-all appearance will be “scraggly” and “dull” compared to other times, as old feathers drop and there may be “patches” where there are obviously fewer feathers. (Again, in normal moulting, this is expected, natural, normal. BUT if the feather-drop occurs at other times, it might be a sign of illness or disease, so do be watchful and mindful.) And be prepared for an abundance of “downy”, small feathers in the dove's house and around yours as well.
• Because it takes quite a bit of energy to grow new feathers, it can be exhausting and most-likely you'll notice a change in “mood”. There won't be as much “playful” time, and not as much “coo'ing”. A dove may seek-out darker places around the house, and places where s/he can have “alone time”. In the wild, they've been known to hide under shrubs, on the ground, for days or even a week and longer until the “heaviest” period of moulting passes. So, in the your care, try to provide a place of privacy, not necessarily in darkness, but a place out of the bright light of the house, generally.
• Moulting can be STRESSFUL in and of itself so if the dove's house (cage) is usually in a place where there's a lot of activity, consider moving it to another room or a place away from noise and activities until moulting is finished and the new feathers are established. The LAST thing a dove needs at this time is more stress.
FOOD AND NOURISHMENT: This is a time when doves need a truly healthy diet! Protein-rich foods have to be added to the regular food, and it's absolutely important to make sure that what-ever is added, it's of a size small enough to be swallowed whole. Hard-boiled egg, “mashed” with a fork and mixed with a bit of regular seed is a good source of protein and vitamin D. Peanuts, dry-roasted, un-salted and un-flavoured, can be ground, not to “peanut-butter” but to very small pieces and added to seed. (All Natural peanut-butter can be added to seeds, but be sure there are no “added ingredients” that might be more harmful. And remember that there is oil in peanut-butter, so provide as much as will be needed for a day and then dispose of the remainder. If you make a “batch”, keep it refrigerated.) Hulled (no cover) sunflower seeds too, can be chopped to swallow-able size and added. And crushed meal worms too, are a great source of protein. My personal preference for the nuts and seeds: grind the nuts and seeds partially together until “chunky”. Add some dried meal worms and continue grinding until all are mixed and the the batch is all (or mostly) of the size of a milo or millet seed. Add this to the regular, daily seed you provide and serve this mixture, at least once daily instead of regular seed until the moulting is done. Be sure to refrigerate any that's left and bring a daily serving to room temperature before serving. And make only enough to refrigerate for about a week. What-ever is left at the end of a week can be put out-side for other birds (who will eat it WELL before it goes “bad”).
Humidity: This is a particularly “itchy” time for a dove, and dryness in the air can tend to make that worse. If you don't already have a little “bath” or “pool-dish” of water in the dove's house, this is a good time to add one. A “Pyrex” dish, large enough for the dove to fit into, with CLEAN water of about an inch (2,5cm) deep not only provides a bit of humidity to the air, but can be a most-welcomed delight. (Clean water is the important note here. As said “If you wouldn't drink it, it shouldn't be in the dove's house.) Normally, doves are most comfortable with a humidity of 50-70% generally. Now, more than ever, that's important, as new feathers come in.
Temperature: Remember that those feathers that are dropping provide protection and warmth! They're not being immediately replaced by new, fully-grown feathers so that protection is diminished. Try to maintain a room temperature of not less than 21°C/70°F. Moulting is draining and exhausting, and now is the time to make sure a dove isn't battling both, the fatigue of moulting AND trying to keep warm.
REST: Again, this is an exhausting time for a dove and plenty of proper rest is very important. You'll need a quiet place, even during the day, so there's no stress, and a night, a comfortable, dark, undisturbed place for a good night's proper and restful sleep for a dove. Yes, it's almost like a little “hospital” or “convalescence home” environment. But, as with people, “bed-rest” is part of the best treatment.
*Note: Doves normally need 10-14 hours of rest/sleep. So set your clock accordingly.
• This said, the entire process will be about a month. It might be a little longer or a little shorter. But if it goes longer than 8 weeks, check with an avian veterinarian. There might be complications. All told, you'll know when it's done because there'll be more “play time”, more “Hey! Love me!” and more vocalisation (the “woo-HOO-hoo-hoo-hoo's” will be back). The new feathers will be obvious, and that “scraggly” look will have disappeared. Your ABSOLTELY GORGEOUS LITTLE COMPANION will be ALL DECKED-OUT to the 10s and beyond, once again, and life will return to “normal”. Congratulations! You've BOTH made it through! (Until the next round.)

FROST-BITE IN THE WILD:
Of particular note, doves (and other birds) have slight sensation in their legs and feet. This allows them to grasp limbs and "perch" for extended periods (e.g. during sleep). It also allows them to walk and stand on cold ground, as in Winter, when they forage for food.
On the "down side", this leads to an increased susceptibility to injuries when they try to perch on sharp or rough edges (e.g. the bars/wires of a cage) or step on bits of glass that might be in the sand or gravel that they're fond of sunning themselves on. It also gives rise to frost-bite! There are accounts of people noticing doves in their yard with missing toes, feet and entire legs!

* In the event that you contact a veterinarian, "avian" or other, and you are flatly refused assistance, including but not limited to references, referrals, or other support, please feel free to let us know.
If the veterinarian is honest and does not feel comfortable giving you advice over the phone and tells you so, be appreciative that s/he is honest. (And we'd like to know who s/he is... to express our gratitude.) It's perfectly understandable that, with-out seeing the patient, proper diagnosis is impossible.
But, if you receive a out-right refusal of ANY support, PLEASE contact us so that we can "warn/advise" others and save them time that can't be wasted when a little one is in need of help.
yonah@gmx.com